40% Rear Seat Delete

One thing I have been contemplating about whenever we go on a trip is storage. Storage for things that will typically live in the truck versus out in the bed. So with that in mind I have been super intrigued by the Goose Gear 60/40 rear seat delete. However for $400 just for the 40%, I wasn’t so keen about. Luckily for me I have a bunch of birch ply laying around waiting for projects and some left over bed-liner spray. Time to put it all to the test…

First step is to remove the back seat bench and back support. Now this part is a little tricky however there are a few videos online to show you how this is done. (specifically from a goose gear install). Lower the back supports and remove the 6 10mm bolts. Once these are removed you can pull the back panels off. Be careful I broke 3 clips on the bottom portion trying to remove it. But if you’re like me, you’ll have a few of these handy anyways.


Measure out your piece and cut the ply wood. I decided to leave some extra space for the front seat to slide all the way back if I ever decide to sleep in the drivers seat due to inclement weather outdoors. IMG_1879IMG_1880

I attached an additional strip of 3/4″ ply to create a level surface. Screwed and glued to each other. IMG_1881IMG_1882

Can’t forget to chamfer the edges so that the wood doesn’t tear out over time. Also creates a softer edge for when you’re loading the panel. IMG_1883


Measured the height and cut the front support piece. Instead of using the 80/20 extrusion that Goose Gear uses, I’ve opted to go for a 1/8″ angled aluminum bar to support the leg. IMG_1885

Use a forstner bit to counter sink your hardware and create a nice fit and finish. The two holes on the top right corner (below) mount directly to the factory seat holes. Use two M8x1.25 60mm bolts to mount. IMG_1891IMG_1892

Additionally to support the panel from moving up and down while off-roading I fabricated two angle brackets in the shape of a 7 to mount directly to the bench bolts. Used 1 1/2″ aluminum bar 1/8″ thickness. IMG_1896IMG_1897

Finally to retain access to the cubby down below I cut a little access hole and used the remaining flat bar to support the door. Now if you have a plunge router (which I don’t have yet) you can plunge route a rabbet on both the panel and top cover. But for time I chose to use the remaining flat bar.IMG_1898IMG_1899

Completed the access panel with a pull hole and secured with Velcro for simplicity. You can purchase latching hardware but I didn’t see the need for our use. IMG_1900IMG_1901

Again choosing to chamfer the edges is beneficial for longevity and looks so much better.IMG_1902IMG_1905IMG_1906Finally spray primer, bed liner, and then topped off with satin black enamel paint. I am currently letting the panel cure in the garage before completing the installation. I also don’t want any of the fumes in the rig until its fully cured.

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