40% Rear Seat Delete

One thing I have been contemplating about whenever we go on a trip is storage. Storage for things that will typically live in the truck versus out in the bed. So with that in mind I have been super intrigued by the Goose Gear 60/40 rear seat delete. However for $400 just for the 40%, I wasn’t so keen about. Luckily for me I have a bunch of birch ply laying around waiting for projects and some left over bed-liner spray. Time to put it all to the test…

First step is to remove the back seat bench and back support. Now this part is a little tricky however there are a few videos online to show you how this is done. (specifically from a goose gear install). Lower the back supports and remove the 6 10mm bolts. Once these are removed you can pull the back panels off. Be careful I broke 3 clips on the bottom portion trying to remove it. But if you’re like me, you’ll have a few of these handy anyways.

Measure out your piece and cut the ply wood. I decided to leave some extra space for the front seat to slide all the way back if I ever decide to sleep in the drivers seat due to inclement weather outdoors. 

I attached an additional strip of 3/4″ ply to create a level surface. Screwed and glued to each other. 

Can’t forget to chamfer the edges so that the wood doesn’t tear out over time. Also creates a softer edge for when you’re loading the panel. 

Measured the height and cut the front support piece. Instead of using the 80/20 extrusion that Goose Gear uses, I’ve opted to go for a 1/8″ angled aluminum bar to support the leg. 

Use a forstner bit to counter sink your hardware and create a nice fit and finish. The two holes on the top right corner (below) mount directly to the factory seat holes. Use two M8x1.25 60mm bolts to mount. 

Additionally to support the panel from moving up and down while off-roading I fabricated two angle brackets in the shape of a 7 to mount directly to the bench bolts. Used 1 1/2″ aluminum bar 1/8″ thickness. 

Finally to retain access to the cubby down below I cut a little access hole and used the remaining flat bar to support the door. Now if you have a plunge router (which I don’t have yet) you can plunge route a rabbet on both the panel and top cover. But for time I chose to use the remaining flat bar.

Completed the access panel with a pull hole and secured with Velcro for simplicity. You can purchase latching hardware but I didn’t see the need for our use. 

Again choosing to chamfer the edges is beneficial for longevity and looks so much better.Finally spray primer, bed liner, and then topped off with satin black enamel paint. I am currently letting the panel cure in the garage before completing the installation. I also don’t want any of the fumes in the rig until its fully cured.